Showing posts with label Baedekers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Baedekers. Show all posts

Monday, August 25, 2014

Baedeker advises on tipping at the Blue Grotto



Found in an 1889 edition of Badeker's Southern Italy this description of the Blue Grotto at Capri:

Blue Grotto. — A visit to the Blue Grotto from the Marina at Capri, where suitable light boats will be found, occupies 1 3/4 to 2hrs. The best light is between 10 and 12 o'clock. The authorised fare for the trip (there and back) is 1 1/4 fr. for each person, but almost no boatman will undertake it without an additional fee of 1-2 fr. The skiffs are not allowed to take more than three passengers. If the wind blows strongly from 
the E. or N. access to the grotto is impossible.The Blue Grotto is situated on the N. side of the island, about l 1/4 m. from the landing-place of Capri. 


The row along the base of the precipitous rocky shore is exceedingly beautiful. The sea swarms with gaily coloured sea-stars and jelly-fish, many of which float on the surface of the water. In 1/4 hr - we reach the ruins of the Baths of Tiberius, where a fragment of an ancient wall and part of a column in the water are to be seen, and in 1/2 hr. more we arrive at the entrance of the **Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra), which is scarcely 3 ft. in height. Visitors must lie down in the boat on entering. In the interior the roof rises to a height of 41 ft.;the water is 8 fathoms deep. Length of the grotto 175 ft., greatest width 100 ft. The effect of the blue refraction of the light on every object is indescribable, and at first completely dazzles the eye. Objects in the water assume a beautiful silvery appearance. 

Thursday, August 7, 2014

Baja, the ancient Baiæ - worth a detour?


Found in Baedeker's Guide to Southern Italy and Sicily ((9th Ed., Leipzig 1887) a loose flyer/2 sided handout, entitled To Tourists. Baedeker's are often a repository of travel ephemera and this one yielded an opera ticket for the Metropolitana in Siena and a map of Naples supplied by the grand looking Parker's Hotel, also a dinner menu that notes the hotel had formerly been known as the Tramontano*. The leaflet, in perfect English and by one GPB, attempts to lure visitors to the ancient town of Baiae (now known as Baja.) Baedeker is rather dismissive of it (see below) so it may have needed some publicising. The leaflet reads thus:

It is particularly urged on visitors that they should not omit the district west of Naples from their programme. Baiæ was recognised by the court of Imperial Rome as the most beautiful spot on the Italian shore; it is not now less beautiful, and the gigantic ruins (so called "Temples") stand among its green vineyards to record the luxury of ancient fashion. Beyond, towards the Capo Miseno (where Virgil tells the Æneas buried his trumpeter Misenus) is the Piscina Mirabile, one of the greatest and most complete monuments of roman engineering still left to us, the gigantic reservoir which held the water for the fleet in the naval harbour below. (It will be remembered that Pliny the Elder was here with his fleet at the time of the great eruption of Vesuvius, and from here set sail to meet his death at Pompeii). Further still are the beautiful islands of Procida (from which, perhaps, the most perfect of all views of Naples Bay is to be obtained) and Ischia, wild and picturesque in the extreme. Cumæ, the remains of a Greek city, some 3000 years old, offers perhaps little except to the archaeologist; but the ancient paved road from Cumæ leads towards Naples under the Arco Felice, the still intact aqueduct which carried to the Naval Reservoir pure water from the Apennines 40 miles away. Between this road and Baiæ lies the famous Lake Avernus recognised for a thousand years as the true mouth of hell. It is now a peaceful lake, but near it the so-called 'Baths of Nero', with their winding underground passages, hot caverns and subterranean streams, may make the modern tourist not altogether incredulous of the earlier belief.


Al this district, the Phlegræan Fields of the ancients, is rent by eruption and pitted with volcanic craters. Most celebrated of these is perhaps the Monte Nuovo, between Lake Avernus and Pozzuoli, a volcano 450 feet high, which arose in a few days, some say a single night, A. D. 1538.